Acne gets back to its street roots for Autumn/Winter 2014-15 after summer surfing

Designer Jonny Johansson’s inspiration couldn’t be any clearer than in the prints for his Autumn/Winter 2014-15 collection presented as part of Paris Fashion Week. Tribal waves and psychedelic swirls crash onto clothes throughout the collection, and these optical patterns are then expertly clashed with leopard- and zebra-print coats and skirts—no mean feat. In the silhouette, a wide-legged, cropped jean offers a new take on surfer shorts, and even the color palette transports the viewer to the beach. Akin to a sun setting over the sea, candy corals, baby blues, mustard yellows and sandy browns provide warmer hues to the grays, mint greens and monochromes.

Knits feature heavily, with ribbed maxi sweaterdresses in white and black, acting as if to cocoon the models. Intarsia-effect jumpers are layered over printed satin men’s shirts, wrapped asymmetrically around the models like starched towels. Elsewhere, loose-leg, pleated pants and baggy sweaters hang effortlessly off of belted hips and shoulders.

Despite an undoubtedly laid-back tone, some looks are unapologetically urban. Shearling gilets are styled with slouchy leather shorts; and vests, culottes and hooded parkas are crafted from dark, iridescent, embossed crocodile leather. A fur-trimmed high-neck popover and a green vinyl-like anorak dress stand out as positively sporty; and even a large, swooping striped overcoat made an appearance, offering a warmer alternative to the variety of windbreakers. Providing variety elsewhere are front-split, felted wool skirts, fitted tweed equestrian-like jackets and a long leather-vest jacket—all have a very sophisticated air.

Elongated pastel denim workwear jackets look glorious in an understated way. Huge, helmet bobble hats stole the accessory show but with the more minimal disk earrings and necklaces garnering modest attention too out-of-the-mix of mid-arm bangles, gloves, small clutches and backpacks. Acne’s square-toed shoes also made a welcome comeback, along with long boots.

The audience welcomed the “hang loose” attitude of this collection. Johansson has managed to amalgamate the city and the sea with a versatility that is sleek yet informal and structured yet unrestrained. It feels more carefree but somewhat riskier in direction—one many hope he will continue to head in.